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Hot on the heels of trendy restaurants worldwide, many properties are incorporating organic foods into their menus.
By Karen Butler
September,
with its bountiful harvests, marks the Organic Trade Association's (OTA) annual
celebration of National Organic Harvest month. The OTA represents the organic industry in
the United States, Canada and Mexico--working to promote organic products in the
marketplace, as well as protecting the integrity of organic standards. This is no easy
feat considering the self-imposed strict requirements the OTA wants the government to
approve and regulate nationally via the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA). But in an
industry currently enjoying 25 percent annual growth or about $6 billion annually, both
farmers and the public want an organic certification program.
The goal of organic farming is to decrease--if not eliminate--the use of potentially harmful chemicals and methods of production in conventional agriculture. The list of offenders is widespread; chemical pesticides and fertilizers involved in growing produce build up in the soil, as well as on the produce, year after year. Some foods even undergo intentional irradiation--the use of applied radioactive rays to kill bacteria.
Besides affecting fruit, vegetables and cotton, non-organic practices also can harm the animal kingdom. Animals routinely are injected with artificial growth hormones and steroids so they will grow faster and produce more milk or eggs. Antibiotics--in the absence of any illness--are added to cattle feed, not to mention the pesticides ingested by eating average farm-grown grains. Animals tend to accumulate pesticides and contaminants in their fatty tissue, which is then passed on to the consumer at mealtime.
So how do organic farmers find ways around conventional methods? Instead of using chemical fertilizers, natural strategies are employed to maintain a healthier soil. The foundation of going organic includes using manure, algae, composting and naturally- occurring plant and mineral extracts. Amy Kremen, owner and grower for Morning Star Garden, explains: "I've planted clover 'living mulches' in pathways and crop beds to help soils retain moisture so I can irrigate less and suppress weeds without chemicals."
In addition, biodiversity--planting an assortment of crops that vary from the main harvest, thereby attracting helpful bugs--benefits both the harvest and the soil. Kremen interplants nasturtium flowers with cucumbers to naturally deter pesky cucumber beetles. In the end, a farm might not yield as much product, but many consider the quality to be better; therefore, justifying a slightly higher price in the marketplace.
In terms of the financial investment, consumers might be surprised. According to Heather Granato, editor of Organic & Natural News¨ magazine, industry data shows that the cost of eating organically is comparable to that of eating conventionally. However, the key to keeping the cost of organic eating down is to eat seasonally--choosing organic foods that are in-season in your area.
Independently-owned properties have the perfect venue for incorporating organic foods into their menus. Since most small properties attempt to capture the flavor of their locale, using organic ingredients from the area spices up meals and the town's economy. Inn Serendipity in Browntown, Wis. does not use any chemicals on its home-grown fruit or vegetables. Fresh produce from the inn's gardens always is a part of the hearty vegetarian breakfasts served to guests.
Relying on small-town ingredients certainly doesn't exempt a property from achieving gastronomical feats of greatness. Sooke Harbour House, a 13-room property in Sooke, British Columbia, Canada, has received critical acclaim from Zagat to Gourmet¨ and countless publications in between. The property grows salad greens and hundreds of organic herbs, buying everything else from local farmers. In Gourmet magazine's 1997 survey of the best meals at properties across the globe, Sooke Harbour House out-ranked millions of eateries, including several Four Seasons' restaurants.
Producing foods without the conveniences of modern technology obviously requires more time and energy, but organic advocates pledge it's worth it. Lisa Kivirist, co-owner of Inn Serendipity, says increased costs haven't been a factor in their decision to grow their own produce. "There is--without a doubt--a wonderful and delicious difference in taste with home-grown, organic fruits and veggies, she says. "They are much more flavorful and succulent."
Jean and Dud Hendrick of Deer Isle, Maine's Pilgrim's Inn have long been dedicated to providing their guests with fresh, organic foods. They have found guests to be receptive to the sight of their gardens, as well as the fact that pesticides and other chemicals are not used.
The change to
organic doesn't have to occur overnight--try a couple of products and see what you and
your guests enjoy. Many grocery stores carry a small selection of organic produce;
otherwise advocates suggest you request them. Such was the case with stores stocking Paul
Newman's non-profit line of foods, Newman's Own Organics¨, which can be found
in grocery stores nationwide.
The demand for organic food also has paid off in many natural and conventional stores for Horizon Organic Dairy¨, the only national fresh milk brand--organic or conventional--in the country. The company recently saw its 1999 net sales rise 72 percent over 1998's figures, which had just risen 67 percent from 1997's figures. 1999's record $84.8 million in sales resulted from an organic line of refrigerated dairy products including milk, eggs and cheeses as well as yogurt, butter and juices. And don't think organic equals boring. Orange-Carrot juice, Chocolate milk and Apricot Mango with Ginger yogurt are standard flavors for Horizon Organic¨.
Besides coming in creative flavors, organic foods also are available in forms most people don't even think about. Panorama Brewing Co. has gone nationwide with its variety of small-batch organic craft beers and, for years, several companies have manufactured wines made from organic grapes.
If your local grocery store doesn't offer organic food, don't rule out a natural or health food store, many of which have national chains. Wild Oats Market and Fresh Fields stores provide a wide assortment of organic and natural products and their inventories grow daily. Although Kivirist grows most of her own produce, when she buys, she chooses organic products such as Whole Foods Market's peanut butter (for homemade smoothies), or mail-order organic products such as Equal Exchange's coffee or Serendipitea's tea.
Farmers' markets are another good source, especially since many independent property owners shop there anyway. An estimated average of 40 percent to 60 percent of the participating growers farm organically.
Another option is working with a Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) project, whereby organic products are delivered weekly to a community. Since the order is long-standing and large, the price is often much lower than an order for a single location would be. This further supports an "eat seasonally" menu--incorporating Mother Nature's gifts into your meals if and when she gives them.
September provides property owners an excellent opportunity to investigate for themselves. Check with your local natural food store for details about National Organic Harvest month events in your area, or log on to www.organic.org for more information.
In addition, Inn Serendipity's Web site, www.innserendipity.com, provides an abundance of organic and environmentally-conscientious information, as well as the story behind the innovative organic partnership between their property and the Michael Fields Agricultural Institute.
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Copyright © 2000 by Virgo Publishing, Inc. |